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Chez Étienne-March 2024

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Mar 16, 2026

　　Family photos and veteran service staff hint at the longevity of this Le Panier favourite, known for authentic, hand-thrown pizza, topped with homemade tomato sauce, fresh herbs and mozzarella. You can't book (there's no phone), and you need to bring cash, but the atmosphere and food (not just pizza, but also seafood and Marsellais standards) are worth the effort.

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Must-see attractions

La Vieille Charité

　　In the heart of Marseille's Le Panier quarter is this grand and gorgeous almshouse, built by Pierre Puget (1620–94), an architect and sculptor born just a couple of streets away who rose to become Louis XIV's architect. With its neoclassical central chapel and elegant arcaded courtyard, it’s a structure of...

　　'The Basket' is Marseille's oldest quarter – site of the original Greek settlement and nicknamed for its steep streets and buildings. Its close, village-like feel, artsy ambience, cool hidden squares and sun-baked cafes make it a delight to explore. Rebuilt after destruction in WWII, its mishmash of lanes hide artisan...

　　Intended as much to control the citizens of Marseille as guard them from external threat, Fort St-Jean was built by Louis XIV in 1660 on the site of a 13th-century Hospitaller fortress. Incorporating 13th- and 15th-century elements, it's faced by its twin, Fort St-Nicolas, across the narrow entry to the...

Château d’If

　　Commanding access to Marseille's Vieux Port, this photogenic island-fortress was immortalised in Alexandre Dumas’ 1844 classic The Count of Monte Cristo. Many political prisoners were incarcerated here, including the Revolutionary hero Mirabeau and the Communards of 1871. Other than the island itself there’s not a great deal to see, but...

　　This swanky restaurant has a Michelin star and knockout water-level views from an elegantly austere dining room. Many splurge on what may be Marseille’s top bouillabaisse – which comes as part of a four-course menu – and on the superb cellar, which leans heavily towards French whites. ...

　　Family photos and veteran service staff hint at the longevity of this Le Panier favourite, known for authentic, hand-thrown pizza, topped with homemade tomato sauce, fresh herbs and mozzarella. You can't book (there's no phone), and you need to bring cash, but the atmosphere and food (not just pizza, but...

Musée d’Histoire de Marseille

　　This intriguing 15,000-sq-metre museum traces the story of 'France's Oldest City' from prehistory (the paintings of the Cosquer Cave) to the present day, across 12 chronological exhibitions. The complex was built beside the remains of a Greek harbour uncovered during construction of the Bourse shopping centre. Highlights include the remains...

　　Ships have docked for millennia at Marseille’s birthplace, the vibrant Vieux Port. The main commercial docks were transferred to the Joliette area in the 1840s, but the old port remains a thriving harbour for fishing boats, pleasure yachts and tourist boats. Guarded by the forts St-Jean and St-Nicolas, both sides...

La Cité Radieuse

　　Visionary modernist architect Le Corbusier redefined urban living in 1952 with the completion of this vertical 337-apartment tower, popularly known as La Cité Radieuse ('The Radiant City'). Its purpose was to increase residential density to allow for more green space. Today the apartments are joined by the Hôtel Le Corbusier,...

Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde

　　Occupying Marseille’s highest point, La Garde (154m), this opulent 19th-century Romano-Byzantine basilica is Marseille's most-visited icon. Built on the foundations of a 16th-century fort, which was itself an enlargement of a 13th-century chapel, the basilica is ornamented with coloured marble, superb Byzantine-style mosaics, and murals depicting ships sailing under the...

Intercontinental Marseille – Hôtel Dieu

　　Occupying a heritage-listed 18th-century hospital, the Hôtel Dieu, the Intercontinental Marseille has a commanding position in Le Panier overlooking the Vieux Port. The grand U-shaped pile features tall arched windows framed by local golden-hued stone and masonry. Within, the 179 rooms and 15 suites are suitably polished, while the best...

　　On the 1st floor of Hôtel Bellevue, this lovely little bar is styled with rich wood and leather, with a zinc bar and yellowing murals that hint of its 1920s pedigree. If it’s sunny, snag a coveted spot on the portside terrace, and sip a pastis as you watch the...

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