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May 19, 2024

　　Claude Trudon began selling candles here in 1643, and the company – which officially supplied Versailles and Napoléon with light – is now the world’s oldest candle-maker (look for the plaque to the left of the shop’s royal-blue awning). A rainbow of candles and candlesticks fill the shelves inside.

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Must-see attractions

Chez Alain Miam Miam

　　Weave your way through the makeshift kitchens inside Marché des Enfants Rouges to find Alain, a retired baker sporting T-shirts with attitude, whose passion, humour and food are legendary. Watch him prepare you a monster sandwich or galette (savoury crêpe) on a sizzling griddle from fresh, organic ingredients – grated...

　　As if fashionistas needed any confirmation that northern Paris' 'nouveau quartier' Clichy-Batignolles is the place to be: iconic fashion brand Sézane has opened its first self-service concept store in a cavernous space overlooking place Prosper-Goubaux. Alongside the season's collection for women, there's the brand's signature knitwear wall, a jewellery bar...

Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen

　　Spanning nine hectares, this vast flea market was founded in 1870 and is said to be Europe’s largest. Over 2000 stalls are grouped into 15 marchés (markets) selling everything from 17th-century furniture to 21st-century clothing. Each market has different opening hours – check the website for details. There are miles...

Jardin du Palais Royal

　　The Jardin du Palais Royal is a perfect spot to sit, contemplate and picnic between boxed hedges, or to shop in the trio of beautiful arcades that frame the garden: the Galerie de Valois (east), Galerie de Montpensier (west) and Galerie Beaujolais (north). However, it's the southern end of the...

Basilique du Sacré-Cœur

　　Begun in 1875 in the wake of the Franco-Prussian War and the chaos of the Paris Commune, Sacré-Cœur is a symbol of the former struggle between the conservative Catholic old guard and the secular, republican radicals. It was finally consecrated in 1919, standing in contrast to the bohemian lifestyle that...

Place des Vosges

　　Inaugurated in 1612 as place Royale and thus Paris' oldest square, place des Vosges is a strikingly elegant ensemble of 36 symmetrical houses with ground-floor arcades, steep slate roofs and large dormer windows arranged around a leafy square with four symmetrical fountains and an 1829 copy of a mounted statue...

Place de la Concorde

　　Paris spreads around you, with views of the Eiffel Tower, the Seine and along the Champs-Élysées, when you stand in the city’s largest square. Its 3300-year-old pink granite obelisk was a gift from Egypt in 1831. The square was first laid out in 1755 and originally named after King Louis...

Musée de l’Orangerie

　　Monet’s extraordinary cycle of eight enormous Decorations des Nymphéas (Water Lilies) occupies two huge oval rooms purpose-built in 1927 on the artist's instructions. The lower level houses more of Monet's impressionist works and many by Sisley, Renoir, Cézanne, Gauguin, Picasso, Matisse and Modigliani, as well as Derain’s Arlequin et Pierrot....

Galeries Lafayette

　　Grande-dame department store Galeries Lafayette is spread across the main store (its magnificent neo-byzantine stained-glass dome dates from 1912), its men’s store, and homewares store with gourmet emporium. 　　Catch modern art in the 1st-floor gallery, take in a fashion show, ascend to a free, windswept rooftop panorama or take a...

　　'Eco-responsible' is the tasty buzzword at the second outpost of Les Résistants, in a former wig shop in the earthy 10e. Fresh, seasonal produce is sourced from artisan producers and the menu changes daily – waste is just not a word here. Tuck into seaweed-spiked beetroot borsch (soup) or Corsican...

Le Très Particulier

　　The clandestine cocktail bar of boutique Hôtel Particulier Montmartre is an entrancing spot for a summertime alfresco cocktail. Each cocktail (€10 to €16) is inspired by a film and comes with tasting notes. Ring the buzzer at the unmarked black gated entrance and make a beeline for the 1871 mansion's...

Arc de Triomphe

　　If anything rivals the Eiffel Tower as the symbol of Paris, it’s this magnificent 1836 monument to Napoléon’s victory at Austerlitz (1805), which he commissioned the following year. 　　This intricately sculpted triumphal arch stands sentinel in the center of the Étoile roundabout - arguably one of Europe’s most chaotic traffic...

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