This basement bar, presided over by Gizi néni (Aunt Gizi), is the place to come to listen to Gypsy music, as Roma musicians play the real deal from about 10pm when they’re off duty after playing saccharine junk at top-end hotels. Expect a warm welcome but no frills. Love, love, love this place.

　　Gizi néni will organise food (her sister cooks) for parties over six with advance notice.