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May 19, 2024

　　One of Kemeraltı's most interesting pockets, this stretch of produce stalls links the centre of the bazaar with the Agora and the eastern stretch of Anafartalar Caddesi. Locals head here to purchase fresh fish, fruit and vegetables, olives and helva (sweet made with sesame seeds). It takes its name from the many historic synagogues in the immediate area.

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Must-see attractions

　　Dating from the end of the 4th century BC, Smyrna's ancient agora was ruined in an earthquake in AD 178 but soon rebuilt by order of the Roman emperor Marcus Aurelius. The reconstructed Corinthian colonnade and Faustina Gate are eye-catching, but the vaulted chambers and cisterns in the basements of...

Kemeraltı Market

　　A labyrinthine bazaar stretching from Konak Sq through to the ancient Agora, Kemeraltı dates back to the 17th century and is home to shops, eateries, artisans' workshops, mosques, coffeehouses, tea gardens and synagogues. Spending a day exploring its crowded and colourful streets, historic places of worship, hidden courtyards and grand...

　　One of Kemeraltı's most interesting pockets, this stretch of produce stalls links the centre of the bazaar with the Agora and the eastern stretch of Anafartalar Caddesi. Locals head here to purchase fresh fish, fruit and vegetables, olives and helva (sweet made with sesame seeds). It takes its name from...

İzmir Museum of History & Art

　　This museum is overlooked by many visitors to the city, who do themselves a great disservice in the process. Spread over three pavilions, it is one of the richest repositories of ancient artefacts in the country and its Sculpture pavilion – crammed with masterpieces from ancient Smyrna, Teos, Miletos and...

Kızlarağası Hanı

　　This restored Ottoman-built bedesten (warehouse) dates from 1744 and is similar to the İç (Inner) Bedesten in İstanbul's famous Grand Bazaar. It's touristy, with most items for sale harking from the far end of the Silk Road (China), but the building itself – which also functioned as a kervansaray (caravansarai)...

　　It’s difficult to imagine life in İzmir without its iconic seafront kordon (promenade), which stretches north from Cumhuriyet Meydanı to Alsancak and south from Konak Pier to Konak Meydanı. A triumph of urban renewal, these two stretches are grassed, have bicycle and walking paths, and are lined on their eastern...

Church of St Polycarp

　　Built in the early 17th century, this Catholic church is the oldest still-functioning Christian house of worship in the city. Its survival during the 1922 fire, which razed all neighbouring buildings to the ground, was nothing short of miraculous. Inside, the walls are covered in frescoes that were restored and...

　　Surrounded by popular coffeehouses, this mosque in the Kemeraltı Market is the largest in the city and dates from 1597. The interior is quintessentially İzmiri, with blue-and-gold motifs on the domed ceiling that are simpler and less Oriental than classic Ottoman designs. Also of note are the roses and grapes...

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