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May 19, 2024

　　Amid tearful prayer and meditation, the climax to any Mashhad pilgrimage is touching and kissing the zarih (gold-latticed cage), which covers Imam Reza’s tomb in the Haram's central shrine beneath the iconic golden dome. Non-Muslims are generally excluded from visiting this inner sanctum but can see a since-replaced older zarih on display in the Haram’s Central Museum.

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Must-see attractions

Nader Shah Mausoleum

　　Elsewhere in the Middle East, Nader Shah is considered something of a historical tyrant. But here he’s a local hero for briefly returning Khorasan to the centre of a vast Central Asian empire. Nader’s equestrian statue crowns his otherwise dour grey-granite mausoleum, built in 1956 to emulate the lines of...

Boq’eh-ye Khajeh Rabi

　　This beautifully proportioned, blue-domed mausoleum commemorates an apostle of the prophet Mohammad who later exiled himself to Khorasan to avoid tensions between the prophet's then-feuding followers. Paying respects at the grave was said to have been Imam Reza’s ‘main consolation’ in coming to Mashhad. The mausoleum took its present domed...

Haftado Tan Mosque

　　Just outside the Haram complex’s official limits sits this splendid 15th-century mosque, originally built as a Timurid-era tomb. It is famous for its mo-ar-raq tilework and beautiful tracery lamps. The two tiled minarets appear to have been prematurely decapitated; the taller one is inscribed with square, deep-blue cryptograms reading 'Mohammad'...

　　Imam Reza’s Holy Shrine is enveloped in a vast series of sacred precincts collectively known as the Haram-e Razavi, or Haram for short. This magical city-within-a-city sprouts dazzling clusters of domes and minarets in blue and pure gold behind fountain-cooled courtyards and magnificent arched arcades. It’s one of the marvels...

Imam Khomeini Ravagh

　　All a-dazzle with intricate, mirror-faceted tiling, this former courtyard is now enclosed and entirely covered by a sparkling ceiling held in place by large, well-spaced columns that spread up and out like conical trees. Sunset prayers are often led from here, with both sexes worshipping together in the large, carpeted...

Azim-e Gohar Shad

　　Exploring the Haram you might glimpse the 50m blue dome and cavernous golden portal of this classic Timurid mosque, built from 1405 to 1418. Unfortunately, non-Muslims aren’t allowed to venture within to appreciate its splendid interior hosting the minbar (pulpit) where, according to Shiite tradition, the Mahdi (12th ‘hidden’ Imam)...

　　This eclectic museum kicks off with chunks of now-superseded shrine decor interspersed with contemporary sporting medals presented by pious athletes, while the basement stamp collection includes a 1983 commemorative featuring the ‘Takeover of the US Spy Den’. The 1st-floor Visual Arts Gallery offers you the opportunity to shower money (or...

　　Amid tearful prayer and meditation, the climax to any Mashhad pilgrimage is touching and kissing the zarih (gold-latticed cage), which covers Imam Reza’s tomb in the Haram's central shrine beneath the iconic golden dome. Non-Muslims are generally excluded from visiting this inner sanctum but can see a since-replaced older zarih...

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