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May 20, 2024

　　Quirky Kunzum has a pay-what-you-like policy for the French-press coffee and tea, and sells its own brand of travel guides to Delhi. There’s free wi-fi, a few travel books and magazines to browse, and paints and brushes on a table for you to produce your own artwork.

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Must-see attractions

　　Although overshadowed by its famous neighbour, Karim's, Al-Jawahar is also fantastic, serving up tasty Mughlai cuisine at Formica tables in an orderly dining room, and you can watch breads being freshly made at the front. Kebabs and mutton curries dominate the menu, but it also does good butter chicken and...

　　Delhi's loveliest escape was originally named after the wife of the British Resident, Lady Willingdon, who had two villages cleared in 1936 in order to landscape a park containing the Lodi-era tombs. Today, these lush, tree-shaded gardens – a favoured getaway for Delhi's elite, local joggers and courting couples –...

Hazrat Nizam-ud-din Dargah

　　Visiting the marble shrine of Muslim Sufi saint Nizam-ud-din Auliya is Delhi's most mystical, magical experience. The dargah is hidden away in a tangle of bazaars selling rose petals, attars (perfumes) and offerings, and on some evenings you can hear the qawwali (Sufi devotional singing), amid crowds of devotees. The...

Mehrauli Archaeological Park

　　There are extraordinary riches scattered around Mehrauli, with more than 440 monuments – from the 10th century to the British era – dotting a forest and the village itself behind the forest. In the forest, most impressive are the time-ravaged tombs of Balban and Quli Khan, his son, and the...

National Gallery of Modern Art

　　Housed in the Maharaja of Jaipur's domed former palace (built in 1936), Delhi’s flagship art gallery displays collections tracing the development of Indian art from the mid-19th century to the present day, from ‘Company Paintings’ created by Indian artists to please their British rulers to the artworks of Nobel Prize–winner...

　　This magnificent 14th-century ruined fort, half reclaimed by jungle and gradually being encroached on by villages, was Delhi's third incarnation, built by Ghiyas-ud-din Tughlaq. The sultan poached workers from the Sufi saint Nizam-ud-din, who issued a curse that shepherds would inhabit the fort. However, it's monkeys rather than shepherds that...

　　It feels as if little has changed for centuries in Delhi's fabulously atmospheric, labyrinthine spice market, as labourers hustle through the narrow lanes with huge packages of herbs and spices on their heads whilst sunlight pours down through cracks in the hessian sacks hanging overhead for shade. The colours are...

　　A beautiful pocket of calm at the heart of Old Delhi's mayhem, the capital's largest mosque is built on a 10m elevation. It can hold a mind-blowing 25,000 people. The marble and red-sandstone structure, known also as the ‘Friday Mosque’, was Shah Jahan’s final architectural triumph, built between 1644 and...

　　Founded by Emperor Shah Jahan and surrounded by a magnificent 18m-high wall, this fort took 10 years to construct (1638–48) and is rumoured to have had the decapitated bodies of prisoners built into the foundations for luck. It once overlooked the Yamuna River, which has now shrunk to some distance...

Qutb Minar Complex

　　If you only have time to visit one of Delhi's ancient ruins, make it this. The first monuments here were erected by the sultans of Mehrauli, and subsequent rulers expanded on their work, hiring the finest craftspeople and artisans to set in stone the triumph of Muslim rule. The complex...

　　This small, but enduring food market, made up of a dozen-or-so restaurants and ice-cream shops, set around a quiet square, is the go-to place for excellent Mughlai and Punjabi food. Prices and standards are high. For quality food, try Gulati, Havemore, Pindi or Chicken Inn. For traditional sweets and ice...

　　Shh, whisper it quietly: this place is better than the Red Fort. Delhi's 'Old Fort' isn't as magnificent in size and grandeur, but it's far more pleasant to explore, with tree-shaded landscaped gardens to relax in, crumbling ruins to climb over (and even under, in the case of the tunnels...

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