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Sudan

Wake at the break of day under the golden pyramids of godlike kings of old, traverse a searing desert to the place where two Niles become one, and watch a million ruby-red fish swarm through gardens of coral. For the few travelers who venture here, the sights found amongst Sudan's sweeping hills of sand come as a fantastic surprise.

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Experience the real

　　A 15-minute walk away from town, this massive mudbrick temple stood about 19m high and stretched 50m long. Nobody is really certain what it was used for but most agree it served a religious purpose. Today it has crumbled into an oddly appealing form and you can still climb to...

Must-see attractions

　　Seemingly lost under the folds of giant apricot-coloured dunes, this ancient royal cemetery, with its clusters of narrow pyramids blanketing the sand-swept hills, is one of the most spectacular sights in eastern Africa. The pyramids range from six metres to 30 metres high and were built in the Nubian style,...

　　This famous souq – the largest in Sudan – is abuzz with noise, activity and colour, and a couple of hours' exploration is bound to turn up all manner of surprises. ...

　　On the far western edge of Khartoum, this market is spectacular, especially on Saturday, but there is no public transport (a taxi will cost at least S£150). The majority of camels come from Darfur. ...

　　In this Khartoum wrestling area, you’ll find traditional wrestlers going through their paces at roughly 4pm on Fridays. The tournament attracts hundreds of spectators. Get there by taxi from the centre (about S£15, 15 minutes). Photography is permitted. ...

Commonwealth War Cemetery

　　This WWII cemetery contains numerous headstones (but no actual bodies). The Allies used Khartoum as a base to invade present-day Ethiopia to expel the Italians, and this graveyard commemorates this conflict. It's also a charmingly quiet spot in the city centre. ...

Ethnographical Museum

　　This museum contains a small but fascinating collection of tribal artefacts from across Sudan. Displays are ordered by geographic region and illustrate how people adapt to each climatic area. It begins with the tropics of (what is now) South Sudan followed by the savannah regions south of Khartoum, finishing up...

White Nile Bridge

　　The confluence of the Blue and White Niles, best seen from this bridge, is a languid high point of the world's longest river. You can actually see the different colours of each Nile flowing side by side before blending further downstream – although neither are blue or white! Don't attempt...

Hamed el-Nil Tomb

　　Every Friday afternoon you can see an incredible Sufi ritual, where a colourful local troupe of whirling dervishes belonging to the Sufi community stirs up the dust in worship of Allah, at this imposing mausoleum located in a large Islamic cemetery. Things start around 4.30pm (5pm in winter), but it...

National Museum

　　This museum, the best in Sudan, has some breathtaking exhibits. The ground floor covers the rise and fall of the kingdoms of Kerma, Kush and Meroe. There's some stunning royal statues and perfectly preserved 3500-year-old artefacts from Kerma. Upstairs are numerous medieval Christian frescos removed from the ruined churches of...

Latest stories from Sudan

　　Next to Kerma's western deffufa is this well organised museum that contains interesting relics from the site, including seven imposing granite statues and various Nubian artefacts. There's also a section dedicated to the Christian and Islamic heritage of the area. Ask for Mahamad Hassan, the director of the museum, who...

Khatmiyah Mosque

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