There’s always been a formidable glamour surrounding Cuernavaca (kwehr-nah-vah-kah), the capital of Morelos state. With its vast, gated haciendas and sprawling estates, it has traditionally attracted high-society visitors year-round for its warmth, clean air and attractive architecture. Today this tradition continues, even though urban sprawl has put a decisive end to the clean air and you’re more likely to see vacationing North Americans and college students studying Spanish on monthlong courses than meet international royalty or great artists in the street.