Haifa's neighbourhoods form an intriguing kaleidoscope: its smart German Colony, teeming Arab-Christian quarter and edgy Masada St each add their own verve to the port city. Posing above roaring traffic and dockside bustle is Haifa's most celebrated sight, a Baha'i shrine and tropical gardens. Tumbling down the flanks of Mt Carmel (546m), the gardens bestow a radiant symmetry on this complex city, whose atmosphere can change from placid to fast-paced in the space of a few steps.