Imagine a loose, spread-out grid of streets surrounded by green hills, with a wrestling stadium here, a large dusty park there, a couple of multi-storey hotels, a busy labyrinthine market, a few gers and a temple complex on the outskirts. That's Mörön (Мөрөн; pronounced mu-roon not 'moron'), a transport hub in northern Mongolia that's also the centre of touristic modernity in this part of the country (think internet, an actual tourist information office and a couple of half-decent restaurants). It comes alive in summer when tourists pass through on their way to Khövsgöl Nuur, and if you're exploring the area, you'll probably find yourself lingering here a day or two. This is a good spot to stock up on supplies, grab a hot shower, sit down on a functioning toilet and generally enjoy life's little luxuries.