Squeezed between the dusty hills and the deep blue sea, gritty Port Moresby is not most travellers' idea of an enchanting capital. A spread-out collection of neighbourhoods – from modern office buildings in Town and Waigani and a glitzy marina full of yachts, to squatter shantytowns with no electricity or running water that cling to the hillsides and scruffy marketplaces where barefoot higglers from nearby villages sell their modest wares, the city illustrates the stark divide between PNG's haves and have-nots.