Whitby is a town of two parts, with the River Esk carving a path between a huddle of 18th-century fishermen's cottages along its East Cliff and a genteel Victorian suburb atop the West Cliff. It's also a town with two personalities – on the one hand, a busy commercial and fishing port (it was here that 18th-century explorer Captain James Cook gained his seafaring legs) with a bustling quayside awash with fish; on the other, an oh-so-pretty, traditional seaside resort complete with sandy beach, amusement arcades and promenading holidaymakers.